seriously.  it is.  i like it.  it’s a lifestyle too apparently.  one that includes ‘wikkid’ guitar solos and wrestler pants.  so that’s a bonus.

and jon stewart said bonuses were only for hedge fund managers.

pft.  pft jon stewart.  pft.

xx

tt

8a.nu Research Harem

three important ingredients: 1) Jens “Hey I Don’t Understand What Debate Means” Larssen (Founder of 8a.nu and General Innovator) 2) 8a.nu (news and quantitative spray/”debate” site), and 3) my distance from the much-loathed but still popular site ((time+space/8a.nu)+me).  it was all there.  fondness, however, not so much.  when i returned i found this*:

* bold emphasis mine.

Debate/Jens:

Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news.

Jade seems to be a reachy one move problem that Daniel Woods, 168 cm?, did in 2007. In the 2008 8a yearbook, Björn Pohl appointed it to be one of the Top-10 most difficult problem in the world. It has been, rather quickly, repeated by five taller guys but no suggested downgrade before Carlo Traversi did so last week.

It is totally understandable that nobody has mentioned a down grade before as this should only be done when you feel something is totally wrong. Carlo has not done 8B+ and crimps are not his strong point. In the video, Carlo says it felt like 7C+ on the ascent.

Grades are delicate matters but if we only base it on feelings and consensus, we will never get it right. We must include second opinions, facts and Time Comparison Grading analyses. A topo producer or 8a can not just wait until another five guys like Carlo has suggested another grade.

Already in March the topo producer Jamie Emerson speculated about Jade being 8B+. Now, Paul Robinson says he is OK with this. My point here is if Daniel Woods have suggested an 8B+ FA grade, probably all of the repeaters would have agreed on that in the same way they agreed on 8C.

If we think grades are important I think a slash grade 8B+/8C is appropriate but if we do NOT think grades are so important and accurate, I would go for Jamie Emerson gut feeling.

I would also like to underline that it is just natural that the FA’s can not get it right 100 %. Daniel Woods has been leading the pack by 12 first ascent boulders graded 8B+ to 8C+. He has a clean record showing that he is very capable of suggesting humble FA grades. He has been a true role model since he was 19-years-old!

two reactions: 1) “bro, whaaaaaaaaaat?” and 2) SCIENCE!!!!

GTFO

-tt/milyoo

spring is imminent.

and

either this diagram is sexist, or i'm sexistly interpreting it...

daniel woods  —->

we'll always have post #34

so.  um.  yeah.

this site, once home to my frustration with being a world-class rock-scaling machine, has – for the moment – passed into the interweb shadow world.

i’d like to thank all the readers, linkers, commenters, sponsors, and flamers who helped make this site one the most important blogs in the history of america.

indeed, with your support we helped push climbing standards forward by months, thought of new and better ways to win at life, and helped elect Obama. we also learned a thing or two about friendship along the way.  and honesty.  and ethics.

gah.  we learned SOOOO much.

if – for some reason – you are interested in me outside my provocative climbing posts then you can follow me here , where i link to various things related to stuff happening in the world.

-tt

worst clown name ever

while i had my reservations about watching a movie aimed squarely at 15 year old girls, i sometimes like to watch popular films so i can remind myself why i hate everyone (aside from all the perfectly rational objective reasons i garnered from my 37th reading of Ayn Rand’s Art Deco Rape Classic The Fountainhead).

for those who haven’t seen it, Twilight is a story about a family of clowns with super-powers who live with regular people outside the colorful confines of the circus.  but rather than just transfix us with their silly antics (HOW DID THEY FIT ALL THOSE CLOWNS INTO THAT RANGE ROVER???!!!???), the central tension of the film is how clown/human love is ruined by the agonies of repressed sexual desire.  it felt like watching a million clowns unsuccessfully trying to grab an out-of-control (i.e. “wacky”) water-hose.

in clown language that means

anyhow.  i learned so much from the first film that i just had to see the follow-up New Moon. it was a mixed bag for me really.  on the down side, it turned out to be the exact same film as Twilight, but they just replaced clowns with werewolves.  on the upside – and this might be the most important thing ever -  i learned how to spot werewolves:

pants commercial? nope. werewolves from New Moon

werewolves don’t wear shirts.

which means…

climbing IS inherently dangerous.

twice over.

-t

Posted in absurdity, competition, failure Tagged: clown shoes, sherma is king of the wolves, shirtless wolfmen, sonnie trotter is a werewolf ]]> http://icftg.com/2009/11/30/twilight-and-rockclimbings/feed/ 5 milyoo lgpp31687robert-pattinson-is-edward-twilight-poster new-moon-wolf-pack sonnie-no-shirt sharmakaly http://icftg.com/2009/11/27/time-machine-accoutrement/ http://icftg.com/2009/11/27/time-machine-accoutrement/#comments Fri, 27 Nov 2009 16:19:14 +0000 milyoo http://icftg.com/?p=1791 ]]>

i tried out for this band, but my suit wasn't "shiny" enough

i don’t believe in god.  sure, i think he is totally going to destroy us all in 2012 with the help of our arch-nemesis Mayan Calender, but i don’t so much  believe in “him”.  in fact, i don’t actually believe in anything, other than math and whatever i happen to be watching on television.   so with little or no “belief magic” you can imagine how stoked i am for thanksgiving.  yes, nothing gets me hyped on binge-eating quite like celebrating native americans teaching white people how not to starve in 1621… only to be almost entirely decimated by their dinner guests over the next 200 years.

TOUCHDOWN!

but this year i’m going climbing (v14+/5.14c+).  then i’m going home (house).  then i’m listening to music (GOOD).  and it probably will sound like this:

paul white is the man.  click on the above image for a free download…

people.  listen to me.  this might be the best beats album of all time.  seriously.  i don’t lie about this kind of stuff.  in fact, outside of taxes and my entire high school sexual history – i don’t lie about anything.  except that one time when i was on vacation.  yes, that really happened.  really.

given the infantile attention span of – well – most everyone, this is probably considered old (it came out a year ago – GASP!).  i forgot where i was going with this, but i just bought this Starkey album yesterday, which makes me both really excited and also, like, WAY behind.  at any rate, this song is awesome.  rowdy r&b flavored bass music.

in what appears to be a trend, here is yet another artist who is a decade younger than me who I am totally in like with.  this remix by Joy Orbison basically takes everything awesome in music and crunches up into something more awesome than all the parts.  in other words – 5/5 – ***** – 10/10 – 8A

and, finally, what’s the point of having a musically affiliated blog if you don’t include yourself?  especially if you – you know – make some of the musics?

this song is good.  i know because my mom listened to it and said i was “SOOOO SMART”.  so, like, eat it.

-tissue/milyoo/tommy

graphic design fail

because – let’s be honest – going ‘green’ actually requires more than just drinking organic apple juice and taking pictures of yourself in front of your neighbor’s Prius .  if you aren’t doing your part on the internet, then – dude – it doesn’t count.

at first i felt bad about opening up my blogorific textual boundaries (yes, exactly like working through the kama sutra but with blog genres and without all the oil) to include stuff not called rockclimbings.  but then i was all like “STOP TRYING TO CONTROL ME…me”.  schizophrenic jokes aside, there just isn’t enough in the rockclimbings to hold my top-rated, coffee-fueled, beer diminished attention.  this is not to say that climbing isn’t super-complex and, like, totally intellectually dynamic, but – to quote Too Short :

You see I got all my game from the streets of California, Young millionaire with no high school diploma, Livin real good, taking care of my folks, roll up a fat one for the players to smoke

don’t get me wrong.  just because i have “mad” “street game” doesn’t mean i don’t still rockclimb.  i decided long ago that if joe kinder can say “mayne” in a paragraph and climb 14d, then basically anyone can do anything they put their mind to.   which is why i recently doubled my training efforts to become one of the best (i.e. strongest, most talented, most epic) climbers of rock in the world. and i still say all sorts of different street words – all the time – in public.

and just between you and me, i’ve waited til now to announce how super-amazing at climbing i am because i was really into the whole unheralded hero trope AND i didn’t want to make the rest of you feel bad.

so, you’re welcome, in advance.

so what’s the plan?  well.  i’m going to write about whatever feels right.  politics?  check.  climbing?  check.  music?  check.  fashion?  you know it, girl!.  because nothing gets me to the laptop faster than a new pair of jeans.

bootcut….  gives me chills.

so yeah.  expect some stuff.  it’s all happening.

tttttttt

just glad there isn’t an economic summit in Slade.

i expect worse over the next decade.