seriously. it is. i like it. it’s a lifestyle too apparently. one that includes ‘wikkid’ guitar solos and wrestler pants. so that’s a bonus.
and jon stewart said bonuses were only for hedge fund managers.
pft. pft jon stewart. pft.
xx
tt
distance, hearts, and fondness
1 06 2010
8a.nu Research Harem
three important ingredients: 1) Jens “Hey I Don’t Understand What Debate Means” Larssen (Founder of 8a.nu and General Innovator) 2) 8a.nu (news and quantitative spray/”debate” site), and 3) my distance from the much-loathed but still popular site ((time+space/8a.nu)+me). it was all there. fondness, however, not so much. when i returned i found this*:
* bold emphasis mine.
Debate/Jens:
Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news.
Jade seems to be a reachy one move problem that Daniel Woods, 168 cm?, did in 2007. In the 2008 8a yearbook, Björn Pohl appointed it to be one of the Top-10 most difficult problem in the world. It has been, rather quickly, repeated by five taller guys but no suggested downgrade before Carlo Traversi did so last week.
It is totally understandable that nobody has mentioned a down grade before as this should only be done when you feel something is totally wrong. Carlo has not done 8B+ and crimps are not his strong point. In the video, Carlo says it felt like 7C+ on the ascent.
Grades are delicate matters but if we only base it on feelings and consensus, we will never get it right. We must include second opinions, facts and Time Comparison Grading analyses. A topo producer or 8a can not just wait until another five guys like Carlo has suggested another grade.
Already in March the topo producer Jamie Emerson speculated about Jade being 8B+. Now, Paul Robinson says he is OK with this. My point here is if Daniel Woods have suggested an 8B+ FA grade, probably all of the repeaters would have agreed on that in the same way they agreed on 8C.
If we think grades are important I think a slash grade 8B+/8C is appropriate but if we do NOT think grades are so important and accurate, I would go for Jamie Emerson gut feeling.
I would also like to underline that it is just natural that the FA’s can not get it right 100 %. Daniel Woods has been leading the pack by 12 first ascent boulders graded 8B+ to 8C+. He has a clean record showing that he is very capable of suggesting humble FA grades. He has been a true role model since he was 19-years-old!
two reactions: 1) “bro, whaaaaaaaaaat?” and 2) SCIENCE!!!!
GTFO
-tt/milyoo
Comments : 1 Comment »
Tags: 8a hackery
Categories : absurdity, development, failure, obsession, philosophy
oh blog, i just can’t quit you
19 02 2010sun came out today. a small victory for humankind.
spring is imminent.
and
Comments : 1 Comment »
Tags: spurt climbing
Categories : breaking
daniel woods explains nomenclature win
17 02 2010
either this diagram is sexist, or i'm sexistly interpreting it...
daniel woods —->
At the Vertical Carnival blog, Cedar Wright, who filmed Woods’ ascent of The Game, quoted him on the name: “I called this problem The Game because for me the climb was a game I had to play; I had to click into game mode, and really train myself for these moves. I had to grow mentally strong and also physically strong to be able to put it together. I call it The Game because I played the game and I ended up winning the game, so game over.”
game over, indeed.
bravo, daniel. bravo.
-tt
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Tags: bravo?, daniel woods, quotes
Categories : absurdity, bouldering
blog.fail
12 02 2010
we'll always have post #34
so. um. yeah.
this site, once home to my frustration with being a world-class rock-scaling machine, has – for the moment – passed into the interweb shadow world.
i’d like to thank all the readers, linkers, commenters, sponsors, and flamers who helped make this site one the most important blogs in the history of america.
indeed, with your support we helped push climbing standards forward by months, thought of new and better ways to win at life, and helped elect Obama. we also learned a thing or two about friendship along the way. and honesty. and ethics.
gah. we learned SOOOO much.
if – for some reason – you are interested in me outside my provocative climbing posts then you can follow me here , where i link to various things related to stuff happening in the world.
-tt
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Tags: failing, the end
Categories : absurdity
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